The grain thread, or warp thread, refers to how the work of the loom is directed in the process of making fabric. Tailors and cutters need to know how to determine it. The base is the main indicator of a stable and low-stretch material. Used as a key characteristic when designing and cutting fabric. Further in the article we will talk about the correct and quick determination of the warp thread.

Types of fabric

Before moving on to the definition of a fractional thread, you need to understand the types of matter. These include:

• A material characterized by an organized lattice weave. It is made on looms.
• Knitwear - which has different types of weave. The resulting fabric is elastic and is a configuration of loops that are arranged in columns and rows.
• They are made from synthetic fiber, which has no direction of structure. These include non-woven fabric and padding polyester.

Having an idea of ​​the structure of the fabric, you can quickly determine its basis. Next we will talk about its exact establishment.

Fabric structure

If you examine the material in detail, you can see the perpendicular intersection of two fabric systems.

When comparing lobar and transverse threads, we can conclude that they have some differences. The former give stronger shrinkage than the latter. This is explained by the fact that during weaving the warp threads are stretched tighter than the weft threads. They are located quite freely. When exposed to steam, the warp threads return to their original position, and the fabric shrinks along its length.

The thread that runs parallel to the working of the loom is called the warp. Its second name is shared thread on fabric. Along its edge, the density of the production increases, so a strong and unraveling edge is formed. It was called the edge.

Features of the location of the warp thread

To accurately determine the lobar thread, you need to know the following:

• The warp is always located along the edge of the fabric.
• The combed pile is located in the direction of the pile.
• If you hold a low-density fabric up to the light, you will notice that the warp is more linear than the weft.
• In half-wool and half-linen fabrics, the grain thread is cotton.
• In semi-silk fabric, the warp thread is silk.
• The warp density in most fabrics is greater than the weft density.

Mark the direction of the grain thread on the pattern using an arrow.

To clarify the location of the base, use the following tips:

1. If the matter is new, then it is difficult to make a mistake, because it is located along the edge. The lobar differs from the transverse in its low extensibility. The piece of fabric is pulled in the hands, lengthwise and crosswise. Where the material is less elastic, that is where the lobar thread is located.
2. You can determine the location of the threads by sound. To do this, you need to sharply pull the fabric along the lobar, as a result you will hear a loud pop. In the opposite direction the sound is duller.
3. The tissue can be further examined in the light. Visually it will be noticeable that the warp threads are smooth, dense and even. They are more twisted compared to transverse ones.

If there is an edge on the material, then the same method is used as on other materials. The grain thread will be parallel to the edge of the knitted fabric.

In the case when it is cut, determining the location is easy. You should look carefully at the canvas: where the posts and loops are visible. The direction of the columns corresponds to the location of the base.

Certain varieties of knitted fabric must be handled with care, because their loops can unravel, forming “arrows”.

On some varieties of such fabric, the direction of the threads is determined along the edge, which is wrapped in a tube. The canvas is positioned evenly along the base.

There are no rows of loops on the loose fabric, and if you cut off the edge, determining the direction of the warp becomes a difficult task. However, there are secrets according to which the lobe thread can be accurately determined on any fabric.

To do this, take a piece of fabric and bring it to a light source (window or lamp). The warp threads are usually more evenly spaced than the transverse threads and are better visible.

Some cutters and tailors quickly determine not only the location of the warp, but also the front and back sides. This is not difficult to do. That's why they inspect the fabric before cutting it.

The front part is usually smooth, and imperfections in the form of nodules and irregularities appear on the wrong side. There are holes along the edge of the fabric - they are retained after the material is released from the machine.

If you carefully examine them, the needle entry and smooth surface will correspond to the wrong side, and the exit and rough fabric will correspond to the front side.

When placing patterns on fabric, you should mark the direction of the warp on each piece. If you do not follow these recommendations, the finished product will lose its appearance and stretch after washing.

Cutting fabric

The process is carried out along the edge. In magazines, finished patterns have the location of the grain thread already marked. The line is extended to the end of the pattern.

When laying it on the fabric, the line is placed parallel to the edge and base. The pattern is pinned, outlined with chalk and cut out with seam allowance. Individual parts are cut out along an oblique line. This arrangement is indicated on the pattern. The part is laid out parallel to the diagonal of the fabric.

Depending on how the craftsman determines all the directions of the threads on the fabric and in accordance with their location, the product is cut. The appearance and service life of finished clothing depend on this.

How to make allowances when cutting a product?

All patterns are made without special seam allowances; during the work process they are outlined along the contours of the parts when placed directly on the fabric. The width on the sides of the products is 1.5 cm, 4 cm on the bottom edge and sleeves, unless otherwise provided.

When cutting a model made of knitted fabric, allowances are reduced to 0.5-1 cm. After all, in this case they are stitched using an overlocker.

When cutting parts with a fold, they should be laid out not only along the warp thread, but also along the fold of the fabric, right to the edge. In such a situation, it is not recommended to make allowances. After the final layout on the material, all the details are pinned with needles and outlined with tailor's chalk. Control lines are also marked.

Accurate determination of the location of the grain thread is necessary to ensure that the result is a well-sewn garment. In addition, you need to take into account the silhouette and type of fabric. The necessary arrangement of parts and a large number of other technical subtleties make it possible to realize the designer’s idea in obtaining a special product.

The grain or warp thread shows the direction of the loom to produce the fabric. It is important for tailors, designers and cutters to know what a grain thread is and how to determine it, since the warp is an indicator of the stable and low-stretch direction of the material. It is used as one of the key characteristics in the design of clothing and cutting of textile material.

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Types of textile materials

Before we figure out how to determine the grain of a fabric or linen, let’s decide on the types of materials. They are divided into three large categories:

• Fabric is a material with an organized lattice-weave structure. Produced on weaving machines.
• Knitwear is a knitted fabric with various weaves. The elastic structure of the knitted fabric is a combination of loops arranged in rows and columns.

• Nonwoven materials are a variety of technological materials, usually made of synthetic fibers and without directional structure. This group includes interlining and padding polyester.

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Fabric structure

The fabric, upon closer examination, is a lattice, that is, a perpendicular intersection of two thread systems.

The thread running in the direction of the loom is called the warp of the fabric. Since it runs along the length, its second name is lobar thread. Along the edges of the fabric, the density of the work increases, forming a strong, non-unraveling edge, which is called an edge.

The thread running perpendicular to the warp is the weft. Thus, the intersection of the warp and the cross weft constitutes the basic structure of the fabric.

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Finding a shared thread

Based on the principle that the lobe is the least stretchable thread of the fabric, let’s try to determine the direction on any existing piece of material. First of all, let’s make sure that this is not knitwear or non-woven material. To do this, let's try to see the weave structure in the form of a lattice. Some weaves have a diagonal structure or two layers. The most important thing is that the fabric has a thread orientation at a clear angle: 30, 45, 60 or 90 degrees. Knitwear has a looped structure, while non-woven materials do not have it at all.

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• If the edge is preserved in the fabric, this is the first assistant in determining the share. The work of the loom is always parallel to this tight edge.
• To find the grain thread on the fabric, let's try to pull the material in all directions: straight and diagonal. The most stable direction is the warp direction of the threads. The method of stretching the fabric, in order to discover the main direction, it may be necessary to recut existing parts.
• In twill and satin weaves, the rib runs in a “bottom-up” and “left-to-right” orientation.
• Sometimes it is necessary to find the location of the grain thread in knitwear or lace, which, according to the production method, belongs to the knitted group. The orientation of the warp knitting of a knitted fabric is determined in a similar way: pay attention to the weave pattern, to the edge loops, determine the direction of the minimum stretch.

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• If the material has a looped texture, pile, or pile, then it is located along the edge and in the longitudinal direction.
• When held up to light, the warp threads are more stable and oriented.
• In blended fabrics, the more valuable fibers are placed in the weft, such as wool and silk mixed with cotton or synthetics.

Cutting fabric

Why is it important to understand textile terminology, understand the types of materials and be able to determine how the grain thread runs? It is the warp, or lobe thread, that is the most stable, inextensible direction of the fabric. When cutting clothing parts, two factors are basic and determining: the front side of the material and the location of the warp with the weft.

Patterns or patterns are laid out on the wrong side of the material along the grain line. Typically, the cut from top to bottom along the length of the parts coincides with the direction of the warp thread. If you do not take into account the correct position, the cut details will be deformed and stretched. This is due to the fact that the fabric shrinks in the process of moistening and wearing more in length than in width. Shrinkage, in turn, depends on the tension of the threads in the loom.

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For example, the principle of bias cutting is based on this feature of deformation. When cutting parts at an angle of 45 degrees, you get beautiful flowing flounces of sleeves or the tails of luxurious long skirts.

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Moreover, fabric cut on the bias stretches more than the warp and weft under natural gravity. Requires subsequent adjustment of the length of the finished product.

To correctly implement the designer’s ideas, it is necessary to take into account many factors: silhouette, design lines, type of material and direction of the grain when cutting. The correct arrangement of parts and many other technical subtleties help to realize the tailor's idea in creating the right product.

They talk about what a lobe thread and a weft thread are in the very first labor lessons at school, and for good reason! The split thread determines how the item you sew will look. If you neglect the direction of the grain when cutting, the finished product may warp, and during wearing it will stretch out and finally lose its shape.

Fortunately, avoiding unpleasant consequences is not so difficult; the main thing is to understand the terminology and several nuances.

What is a shared thread?

So, lobar thread- this is the warp thread running in the direction of the loom. It is precisely because it runs along the length of the canvas that it is called a lobe.

edge this refers to a strong edge of the fabric, secured using a special textile method.

Weft thread- this is a thread perpendicular to the warp, and their intersection constitutes the basic structure of the fabric.

How to determine the shared thread?

Method 1. The simplest and most obvious method of determining the grain thread works in most cases: since we know that the grain thread is parallel to the selvage, no difficulties will arise if your fabric has a selvage.

But it often happens that the edge has already been cut off, and then you will have to use other, more complex methods.

Method 2. This method requires some experience because, despite its apparent simplicity, you will need a trained eye.

All non-knitted fabrics stretch a little along the weft thread and have little or no elasticity along the grain. Take the fabric with the cut edge and pull it in different directions: where it stretches there will be a weft thread, and where it doesn’t there will be a weft thread. Keep in mind: the fabric will best stretch on the bias, that is, at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp and weft threads, but you will notice some deformation of the fabric.

Why is this method not as simple as it seems? There are times when an inexperienced craftswoman feels that the fabric stretches no matter how you turn it. If in doubt, you should use additional methods.

Method 3. Stretch the fabric with a sharp, but not strong movement - along the lobar you will hear a characteristic ringing cotton. Along the weft, the sound will be weaker and muffled.

Method 4. If you are still not sure, try holding the fabric up to the light: the grain threads are always smoother and more even than the weft threads.

Further methods work only in special cases, since they depend on the composition of the fabric!

Method 5. If you know that the fabric consists of cotton and wool threads, then you can be sure that the lobe threads will be cotton threads, and the weft threads will be wool.

Method 6. If your fabric consists of cotton threads and natural silk threads, silk will serve as weft threads, and cotton threads will serve as weft threads.

How to determine the grain thread in a knitted fabric?

The presence of a selvage again removes the issue, but if it is not there, then the stretchability of the fabric will help you little, although it is believed that in knitwear the lobe will stretch the least. You can also use the following tips.

Method 1. Upon closer inspection, you will see that the knitted fabric consists of looped columns and rows. The direction of the columns corresponds to the direction of the grain thread, the rows correspond to the direction of the weft thread.

Method 2. Some types of knitted fabrics are rolled up along the edge into a tube. Since the material lies flat along the grain, this feature will help you identify it.

Share thread and cutting

When cutting, the direction of the grain of the fabric is extremely important. The direction arrow of the grain thread on the paper pattern must strictly correspond to the direction of the warp thread of the fabric (the loop column of the knitted fabric).

Accordingly, if your fabric has a selvage, the pattern pieces should be positioned so that the grain direction arrow is parallel to it.

Longitudinal and transverse thread. Everyone knows that fabrics are made from threads that are intertwined in a certain way. Different weaves of threads give different textures to the fabric: smooth, fleecy, embossed. If you magnify the fabric surface many times, you can see what kind of woven pattern the threads form. When cutting fabric, the concept of grain thread is important and how to define it. Any dressmaker should know this. In addition to the longitudinal or lobar, there is also a transverse thread. Together they form the surface of the fabric. The grain thread runs along the edge of the fabric. The transverse one lies perpendicular to it - along the cut of the fabric.

Methods for determining the lobar thread. There is a simple way to determine the grain thread on fabric. You need to take the canvas with both hands along the edge and try to tighten and loosen the material. When weaving, the warp threads lie flat and with great tension, which prevents the fabrics from further deforming. The tension of the transverse threads - weft - is weaker, so they shrink less than the warp of the fabric. The fabric along the edge almost does not stretch - this is the grain thread. If you tug the material along the cut line, it will be more elastic. This is a longitudinal thread. There is also an oblique line - the tension occurs along the diagonal of the weave of the threads. Here the fabric is the most stretchable and elastic. It is enough to remember how a scarf stretches, which is folded at an angle and tied around the neck. In fleecy fabrics, the pile lies in the direction of the lobar threads.

Weave of fabric threads. Different fabrics have threads that are woven differently. The way the threads are twisted together determines what kind of fabric you get at the end. The most common is plain weave. This is how cotton fabrics are made, such as calico, chintz and other bedding, linen dress fabrics, and wool. With twill or diagonal weaving, ribbed or striped materials are obtained, for example, corduroy. In this case, one lobar thread overlaps two longitudinal ones or vice versa. There are also satin and satin weaves. This fabric has a smooth shiny surface. This effect is achieved by applying 4-8 warp threads to one weft thread or vice versa. These are the main types of weave of threads in woven fabric. There are other, more complex combinations that form the direction of the threads to create various fabrics.

Cut. When cutting garments, an important point is to adhere to the grain thread. If this is not done, the finished product will be deformed after washing and will lose its aesthetic appearance. The fabric is cut only along the edge. On finished patterns from magazines, the direction of the grain thread is always marked. This line must be extended to the end of the pattern. When laying a piece of paper on the material, this line should be parallel to the edge or grain. Then the pattern is pinned, outlined with tailor's chalk and cut out with seam allowances. Some parts need to be cut along an oblique line. This is also indicated on the pattern. This part is laid parallel to the diagonal of the fabric. The appearance and durability of the finished item will depend on how the directions of all the threads on the fabric are correctly determined and the product is cut clearly in accordance with these threads.

1. The grain thread always runs along the edge of the fabric.
2. If there is no edge on your cut, you can determine the grain thread by pulling the fabric: the warp threads are stretched tightly when weaving, and the weft threads go more freely, so the grain thread is less stretchable. For the same reason, it is along the grain thread that the fabric shrinks more than through the weft.
3. Varying degrees of tension on the fabric threads allows for another test to determine the direction of the grain thread. Take the fabric at the edge with both hands at a distance of 7-10 centimeters. Straighten the fabric sharply in this area several times, and you should hear a pop. Due to the strong tension, the warp of the fabric produces a ringing clap, while the weft makes a duller sound.
4. If you look at the fabric under the light, you will see that some threads are located more evenly, others (perpendicular to the first) - more unevenly. The lobe thread runs in the direction of more uniform threads.
5. If the fabric has a fleece, it is usually located along the grain thread.
6. If in cloth fabric there are cotton threads in one direction and wool in the other, then the wool threads are always weft.
7. Knitted fabric stretches in different directions, but in different ways. Along the base, the knitwear is pulled into a tube, and across the base - like an accordion.
8. If the direction of the grain thread is not followed, the finished product may stretch out greatly, quickly lose its shape, or fit incorrectly on the figure.

Determining the right side of the fabric.

To determine the right side of the fabric, you first need to find out what type of weave the threads of this fabric have. After all, the fabric consists of two systems of threads intertwined at right angles: longitudinal threads - the warp and transverse threads - the weft.

The main weaves are plain, diagonal or twill, satin or satin. Plain weave is the most common. In this case, one weft thread overlaps one warp thread. This weave has the same surface on both sides. Calico, calico, most linen fabrics, and dress fabrics made from natural and artificial silk and wool are produced with this weave. The right side of plain-dyed fabrics with a plain weave is considered to be the one that looks cleaner, is better finished, and has less fluff. In printed fabrics, a pattern is applied to the front side.

Diagonal, or twill weave, forms stripes (ribbons) on fabrics. In this weave, one weft thread overlaps two or three warp threads or vice versa. Cashmere, Boston, Cheviot, lining twill, etc. are produced with this weave. Twill weave fabrics sometimes produce different shades when cut in the opposite direction. The right side in these fabrics will be the one where the rib goes from bottom left to top right.

With satin or satin weave, the fabric has a smooth, shiny surface. In this weave, in satin one weft thread covers from 4 to 8 warp threads, in satin, on the contrary - one warp thread covers from 4 to 8 weft threads. The front side of the fabric is shiny, and the back side is matte.

In addition to the above types of weaves, there are others that are derivatives of them, as well as combined ones.

Definition of lobar and transverse threads.

The properties of the lobar and transverse threads are different. Lobar threads shrink more than transverse threads. This is caused by the fact that the warp threads are stretched tightly during weaving, while the weft threads run more freely. Therefore, when exposed to moisture and steam, the warp threads acquire their original position, that is, they bend around the weft threads, and the fabric shortens (shrinks) along its length. Fabric shrinkage can be deliberate, which has a positive effect - this is the so-called decating. If undecated fabric is accidentally exposed, a product made from it will also shrink, but this is a negative phenomenon.

Some techniques for determining the lobar and transverse threads: the lobar thread runs along the edge; during a tensile test, the lobar thread has almost no stretch, while the transverse thread is more stretchable; on brushed fabric, in most cases the fleece is located along the grain thread; when tested through transmission, it is clear that the lobar filaments lie more evenly.